佛山的素食
高野山是坐落在日本中部离奈良不远的一座佛山。它是全日本佛教的中心。在这座山里不但有好几百家寺院，甚至还有一个佛教大学。山里最早的庙宇已经有1000多年的历史，相信是在中国唐朝时期去中国取经回来的和尚在这里修建的。佛教徒奉行素食，高野山又独处一隅，由此经历了几百年地积累，这里渐渐形成了一个风格独特的日本素食的菜系，而且变得非常有名。
我们开车顺着山路前行，弯曲的山路两边长满了高大的松树，足有好几里路，终于到达了一乘院寺庙。这间寺庙是在1171年修建的。我们入住以后时间还早，就到高野市中心随便走走，参观了其他的庙宇、纪念碑和博物馆。虽然路上有很多房子和游客，但是你可以感觉到在寺院的周边有一种幽静、严肃、安详的气息，一种非常浓的宗教氛围。
太阳下山后，我们回到了自己的房间，洗了一个温泉澡，换上宽大的和式便服，准备吃晚饭。我们被带到一个非常大的房间，里面装饰陈列着东方的字画和古董，所有的墙面和拉门都是古代的壁纸还有传统的画像。我们一坐到榻榻米的垫子上，25盘菜的晚餐就送来了，并且所有的食物都同时呈上来放在三个小桌子上。稍后我们才知道这种服务方式是为了客人能够享受完全的舒适并保证不被打扰。所有的菜式和食物都是蔬菜和谷物做成的，全是素的。
我先喝了一个小碗里的清汤，汤里只有一片竹笋和蘑菇。清汤看上去是那么简单，让我低估了它的美味。汤一入口，我非常惊奇地发现这碗汤居然非常鲜美。直到现在，我都想不出他们没有用任何动物的油脂，汤底和味精是怎样做成这样的鲜汤的。
腌过的桃子和李子是很好的开胃菜，看起来平常，但果肉的甜和酸有着美妙的平衡。在众多好看又美味的菜盘里，最著名的要算是高野豆腐。这是一种在高野山特制的豆腐，保存期很长，在寒冷的冬天可以提供给当地寺院里的和尚们，这种方便的食物不必每天生产。高野豆腐有很独特的味道和口感。现在它已经成为日本非常普遍受欢迎的产品。除了高野豆腐外，还有另外一种锅麻豆腐，是用一种白芝麻籽做成的，所以它有很浓的香味。锅麻豆腐和其他的食物拌在一起吃，味道美妙极了。除了豆腐以外，还有各种新鲜的野菜和绿色的谷类。
裹粉油炸的丝瓜和红薯，非常甜美酥脆。它们被炸成漂亮的金黄色，以致色香味俱全。我最喜欢的一盘菜是蒸茄子配上芝麻籽和米醋。非常新鲜的茄子有一种美妙的口感和味道，甚至于白米饭也是煮得恰到好处。这是我吃到的最为满意的一餐没有任何肉和鱼的素食。
和丰盛的晚餐比起来，第二天的早餐算是清淡的。我们有稀饭和各式各样不同的泡菜和腌水果佐餐，感觉恰到好处。
Koyasan is a mountain located near Nara in central Japan and considered the center of all Buddha religions in Japan. There are hundreds of temples and even a Buddha University in Koyasan. It is believed that the oldest temple here was build over one thousand years ago by the monks who had returned from China during the Tang Dynasty. Since Buddhism practitioners and followers are all vegetarians and Koyasan is somewhat isolated from other civilizations, it has, after hundreds of years, developed a unique style of traditional Japanese vegetarian cuisine and become very famous in Japan.
We drove through miles of winding and hilly roads densely populated with huge pine trees and arrived at Itijyoin Temple, which was established in 1171. After checked in, we took a tour of the center of Koya and visited other temples, monuments and museums. Although there were quite a number of visitors and tourists on the streets, one could definitely sense the feeling of calm. The temple grounds oozed with a serene, tranquil and holy spiritual sensitivity.
We returned to our rooms after sunset, took a hot spring bath, changed into our yukatas and were ready for dinner. We were led to a very spacious room decorated with Oriental paintings, calligraphies and other antiques. All walls and sliding doors were pasted with ancient wallpaper and historical paintings. Immediately after we sat down on our mats, our 25-large-and-small-dish dinner was served and presented all together on three small tables in front of each person. It allowed guests to enjoy dinner in complete comfort and pace without any interruption. All dishes were made of vegetables and staples.
To begin, I drank the small bowl of clear soup which had just one piece of mushroom and one slice of bamboo shoot in it. Underestimating its simplicity, I was pleasantly surprised to find the soup incredibly delicious and refreshing. To this day, I am still unable to determine how they could make a seemingly plain soup taste so fine without the use of animal fat, broth or MSG.
Next, there were pickled plums and peaches to stimulate the appetite. The tastes of sweet and sour were perfectly balanced. Among many beautiful and delicious dishes, the most famous one would be the Koya Dofu. This type of tofu has a long shelf life, which makes it a convenient food during Koyasan’s harsh winters. This precluded everyday tofu production for the monks. Koya Dofu, with its distinctive taste, has become very popular today throughout Japan. In addition, there was another tofu, Goma Dofu, which is made from white sesame seeds. It is delightfully rich and well complement the otherwise mildly flavored fare.
Other than tofu, we had all kinds of wild, fresh vegetables and organic staples. Tempura squash and yam were so tender and sweet. They were fried to just the right golden color and temperature to enjoy. Steamed eggplant with sesame seeds and a dash of rice vinegar was my favorite. The rice was also cooked to perfection. With no meat or fish, it was one of the most satisfying dinners I have ever had.
Matching up with last night’s dinner, breakfast was light and delightful. We had congee and a myriad of pickled vegetables and fruits...and it was just right.
王大东
餐饮前辈，担任肯德基亚太地区副总裁时，将肯德基引入中国。一生从事大众餐饮连锁，兴趣却在追求卓越的美食品位。事业涉及全世界，由此也吃遍了全世界。
